aviatrix #2 (lined)—a tutorial

**I scheduled this post before signing up for Kids Clothes Week Challenge: Fall 2010 over at Elsie Marley, so technically I didn’t really finish this during the challenge week, but really close!  And since most of my posts this week are about sewing, I thought I might as well throw my hat in the ring!**

When I recently cast on for my second Aviatrix hat, I was a little concerned because it was for a newborn, and I was using 100% wool yarn.  Itchy & newborn aren’t a good combination in my book—especially if you want them to wear the hat.
I decided to line the finished hat with flannel and thought I’d share the process here for anyone interested—a tutorial of sorts.   Here’s what I did, step by step; at the end I’ll share things I would do differently next time.
IMG_0990 Following the outline of the finished hat with earflaps aligned, cut two lining pieces from your lining fabric.  I cut approximately 1/2 an inch away from the edge of the hat all the way around.  *Note*—since my lining was plaid, I cut the two pieces separately to be sure that my plaids would match.  If you cut your pieces singly, flip your first piece right side down and use as the pattern for cutting your second piece (see below).  If your lining isn’t plaid or you’re not worried about matching your lines, just cut two pieces at once through a double thickness of fabric.
IMG_0992 As shown above, I did not include the strap in my lining.

IMG_0993Next, with right sides together, sew your two pieces together from the front “forehead” edge to the back “neck” edge.  Do not sew lower edge of hat or earflap.  Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Press seam allowance open.
IMG_0995 Open up lining and stitch 1/4 inch from lower edge of hat lining    (you will make a complete circle around the lower edge of the lining through a single thickness of fabric).
IMG_0996 Using your 1/4 stitching line as a guide, press the lower edge of the hat under, towards the wrong side of the fabric.
IMG_0997 IMG_0998 With wrong sides of lining and hat together, pin lining inside hat.  Stagger the lining slightly inside of the hat edge so that the lining doesn’t show from the outside of the hat.
IMG_0999 At this point I discovered I hadn’t given myself quite enough  seam allowance at the front of the hat, so I ripped the lining seam allowance back slightly, creating a small “v” for ease.
The scariest part is right now (so scary that I didn’t get a picture)—with the lining facing up, edgestitch the lining to the hat around the entire lower edge of the hat.
IMG_1000 Turn the hat inside out.  Hand tack the lining to the hat along the center seam allowance along each “ridge” of knitting to hold the lining in place a bit better.
IMG_1005 And there you have it—a warm and soft hat for baby.
Reflections (or things I would do differently next time):

  • Sew your buttons on after you attach the lining.  Or, do as I did—sew the buttons on first, forget they’re there, try to sew over them with the sewing machine, and then handstitch the lining around the button area.
  • When cutting out the lining, make sure you’re at least 1/2 inch away from the hat to avoid the “v” effect for give/ease.
  • Trace the 1/2 inch cutting line onto your lining fabric around the edge of the hat and remove the hat before cutting.  After all, you wouldn’t want to slice into your hat with your scissors, right?
  • When stitching the lining to the hat with the sewing machine, I experimented a little with shorter and longer stitch lengths.  They both left a fairly deep groove in the fabric of the knit.  That being said, I would go with a smaller stitch length next time—it is less noticeable from the outside of the hat; it would be more difficult to rip out if need be, but on such a simple seam I was willing to risk it.  🙂

Ravelry project page.


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